Grilled hamburger

62 Comments

  1. Interesting. This is the opposite of what I’ve read everywhere else – that you are supposed to go really high heat immediately, for a few mins on one side then turn once and finish cooking on medium heat. This is to sear the patties and help retain juices. I get your point about increasing the time you have for a temperature window but during that lower cook are you dribbling out all the juices? I know the sear method does work because when I stick in my thermopop at the end to check temps I can get little gushers of juice from the hole I just made.

    1. Hogan,
      In the trials we performed, burgers cooked slowly ended up just as juicy as those cooked over direct heat.
      That is anecdotal evidence, but I believe the slower protein coagulation in the slower cook compensates for the lack of insta-crust obtained by the hard sear. Maybe this warrants further study on our part!
      This

      1. I would be interested to know. In any case, I will say that my purchase of the Thermopop has been amazingly helpful for the quality of my burgers, brats and chicken. I usually get the burgers off at 165 but I might try taking them off a bit earlier at 155 like you suggest. Before Thermopop we would always do brats by “sight” which meant cutting into them which drained all the juices, and we certainly overcooked them. The first few times after Thermopop my mother in law looked at them with raised eyebrow like “are you sure they’re done???” Yes, I am, thanks to Thermopop. I know I sound like a shill for Thermopop but I’m a real person 🙂

        1. Hogan,
          I’m glad to hear it’s improved your cooking experiences! I think you’ll like burgers at 155 better than 165.
          Happy cooking!

    2. “Sealing in juices” and such has been proven to be a myth. The sole reasons for searing meat are to develop a crust for texture contrast and to activate the Maillard reaction (deep browning) to develop complex flavors.

      1. CORRECT Brian !! “Sealing in Juices ” is a proven myth !! Just check out the cooking gurus posts…..Bobby Flay, Chef Jean Pierre, Guga, Chud’s BBQ, The BBQ Lab, Mad Scientist, Smoking’ Dad, …the list goes on 🙂

    3. maybe it was the very lean meat, but i tried this and they were dry, but not unpalatably so. I might do a few experiments to get it right

      1. To keep very lean ground meat from getting dry I mix in one or a combo of finely diced : mushrooms ; onions ; peppers , etc . I find Onions are most popular.

      2. Add oil to lean ground beef. Anything less than 15% fat needs a boost. Also add panko and/or minced sautéed onions, garlic, peppers etc to help retain moisture

      3. Use 80/20 at a minimum for juicy burgers. Very lean meat is fine for tacos or sloppy joes, but not for burgers. That in itself guarantees you dry burgers.

    4. Yup; confusing. Now Meathead of Amazing Ribs states searing does not retain juices!!! No wonder we hapless folks have problems…………

  2. There’s a fundamental error in this article that brings into question whether the author knows what they’re talking about. Whether beef is store-ground or home-ground does not affect whether surface bacteria is distributed throughout the burger and it should be cooked to 160 to be safe regardless of who grinds it. PERHAPS the steak you bring home to grind has less bacteria on the surface, but there is no assurance of that. PERHAPS your grinder is cleaner than the one used in the store, but there is no assurance of that. It is the act of grinding that distributes bacteria from the surface into the meat whether the store does it or you do it. Thought for the day: why not hit the surface of the steak with a blowtorch and THEN grind it? ????

    1. Ed,
      You bring up an excellent point. Rinsing the meat first is something I should have brought up. Plain cool running water is perfect for that.
      You could also use a dilluted peroxide solution to sterilize it, which is both “generally recognized as safe” by the FDA and is something recommended by the authors of Cooking for Geeks.
      Thanks for bringing it up!

      1. Martin–Please elaborate on the benefits of rinsing the meat with cool water first. I can’t imagine that would kill surface bacteria. If diluted peroxide is the key, what percentage? Or forget the whole thing and just reverse-sear to 155?

        1. Rick,
          Bacteria don’t cling to any surfaces—they just sit on the surface. Running cold water (cold to slow their metabolism) literally washes most of them off the surface. I can’t say if it’s a log-7 rinse, but it is very thorough.
          As for the peroxide, I’ll have to read up on it and get back to you.
          Great questions!

          1. As a avid grilled and an owner of a USDA inspected slaughterhouse, along with a meat processing room and a retail sales counter, I find your thoughts on bacteria interesting. I have not heard of the peroxide wash, although I can see how peroxide with its various properties could be beneficial. There are several commercially available carcass rinses that neutralize bacteria, and some that you can make. We use one with vinegar and water which not only is organic but will kill the surface bacteria. Most slaughter houses use a carcass rinse and we periodically pull a surface sample for testing to insure that our process works. Cold water by itself is not going to rinse off the bacteria, we have data to back that up. As Ed Foster says up above the grinding process distributes the existing bacteria throughout the product and even if your slaughter house has taken all the appropriate measures there is always the chance of post contamination in the fab process or even at the grocery counter with improper sanitation or employee hygiene. Maybe I’m biased but your chance for the cleanest meat will come from a butcher shop that is diligent with its sanitation program. Any sanitation program is only as good as the employee buy in…

    2. This misses an important point. Yes, when you grind the meat it distributes the bacteria through the ground meat. That’s all there is when you cook it right away. But when it is ground at the retailer, then sits in the cooler, then taken home and sits in your fridge, all those bacteria are growing and multiplying the whole time and they are doing so below the surface. Even in the freezer, they will grow and multiply very slowly.

      The difference is time for the bacteria to grow and spread _inside_ where you have to heat them to kill them.

  3. You never stated inside temperature of grill. I assume you kept grill at a constant inside temperature. What was inside temperature of grill?

    1. Bill,
      The grill I was using happened to be hovering around 300°F ambient temperature. So I was doing the slow-cook at that temp.

  4. That 160 is the quick kill temp. A lower temp(like 145) for 8-10 minutes can accomplish the same kill.

    1. Rick,
      It holds true for all salmonella. However, with pork and beef the main worry is actually E. coli. I have not yet found such a chart for that bacterium. The same basic principles will hold, but I cannot speak to the exact times.

  5. I have not tried this but my initial question would be does the burger release from the grate as easy cooking on the low side?

    1. Dave,
      Yes, it does. I’ve had no problems with this at all, in fact. Give it a try and tell us what you think! Worth it?

  6. Stumbled on this looking up hamburger cooking temps. Grinding one’s own meat is actually safer than store bought pre-ground. The reason is because at a factory there are numerous cattle that contribute to any run of commercial beef grinding. So the chance of one cow with E. Coli HO 157 contaminating all of the meat is much higher that if you put the meat of one cow through your personal grinder. Always decontaminate meat before grinding. You can do this as noted above with dilute hydrogen peroxide or you can buy irradiated meat from specialty stores. Most of my pals take their own cattle and kill one a season for burger. If you do this, and your dressing and butchering techniques are proper, and your work site is bleached, you will not contaminate your meat by contact with the gut and then there will be essentially no chance of contamination of the meat. If you live in a rural area, finding someone who does this is easy. If not, take a ride in the country…most private places are on the web and there is one near you. Tour their prep area and inquire as to their decontamination techniques. We are brutal about this…but not everybody is!

    There are data regarding the effectiveness of wiping vs rinsing vs washing with soap for the removal of bacteria from one’s own skin. One expects there would be a rough correlation with the surface of meat. And it is no surprise that rinsing is about 75% effective. Wiping much less and rinsing after scrubbing with soap and water is much higher. So…if you rinse…you still need those high surface temps to kill surface bacteria.

    Dr Richard

    1. Thank you so much for this contribution! I love the idea of finding a good, local producer and checking them out.

  7. What if your burger blend is done fresh at a butcher shop (double ground medium)? Does that allow the lower home ground pull temp?

    1. If you know it was ground fresh today, and that your butcher keeps a clean shop, by all means go for it!

  8. Wow, way to complicated. I’m just gonna do it the way I’ve always done it which is the wrong way according this article. lol Happy Grilling.

    1. There are plenty of ways to cook a burger right! If you like your way, then it’s right for you, but do check its final temp before digging in!

  9. OK, but the maximum temperature the probe reads for both conditions is about the same considering you are still climbing a bit when the second graph is truncated. Plus it takes nearly 40 minutes to make a burger… Would it not be better just to turn the grill heat down after a high initial heat?

    1. The max temp is the same, but in the two-stage cook, you approach that final temp more slowly, meaning it’s easier to bullseye your final temp. Doing a forward sear with your burgers can also be great! We just found that in our trials, reverse searing was a little better.

  10. Reverse sear is awesome with burgers.
    In Austin this weekend. Taught my daughter how to reverse sear a steak with a Thermoworks Smoke.

  11. When doing the 2-stage cooking of hamburgers, what temp should the indirect side of the grill be? And once they are put over the direct heat, what temp should that be?

  12. It’s time AND temperature… if you dip a chuck roast into boiling water for about 1 minute (I can’tremember the exact time… google it) then into ice cold water, you are likely to kill any harmful bacteria… then grind and eat raw if you want to… similar is when you wash the outside of a watermelon or cantaloupe before cutting… it’s the cutting that carries bacteria into the interior of the melon…

  13. Did I miss something in your July 2018 comments, namely in direct stage grilling and in two stage grilling, no mention of flipping burgers and when?
    Am about to use a thermopen one in my next round of burger grilling.

    1. Norman,
      Good point! I like to flip the burgers every 60–90 seconds. You get good char without overcooking one side that way. I hope that helps!

  14. About washing meat in any temp water, first I am not an expert by any means, but back near the beginning of Covid 19 there were lots of dramatizations on how germs spread, distance when talking vs. yelling, sneezing, singing, etc. One of these was inresponse to washing food, meats in particular, a process that many people in the early Covid days started doing as a safety measure. The demo showed germs moving surprising distances and getting on many surfaces near and around the sink, as well as the hands AND arms (with zealous washing even further onto the clothes) of the person washing the meat. The upshot of the dramatization was not to wash meat (they washed a chicken) but I suppose just holding meat still under running water without any manipulations could minimize this undesired result? I would think you would have to be just a careful drying the meat. Regardless I would thoroughly clean the entire area with bleach (or your preferred germacide/antibacterial cleaner)

    I just ordered a Thermapop and am hoping that with it I will finally make a safe, juicy, tender oven roast with potatoes browned around it like my Nana used to make but that I have never gotten right. I hope so because now I really want it and soon will have the tool to guide me.

    1. Yes, the splashing can spread germs, and you’d need to sanitize afterwards. Drying with disposable paper towels is the way to go!

  15. With a large BGE, I’ve experimented with hot sear and two stage burger grilling along with a different patty size, thickness, etc. Overall, I’d say keeping an eye on your grill/meat temp to avoid overcooking is key with any method but two stage seems the better method with thicker burgers. I light the back half only of the lump with a MAPP torch, leave the lid and intake full open and go inside to make and lightly season the four, ~1/2 pound patty’s with a beef rub. I use store bought 80/20 hamburger – CAB, if it’s on sale. Although I have a variety of ThermoWorks tools, I only use the Thermapen One or its predecessor for burgers. I like to add a few, very small pieces (1x2x1/2”) of oak or even apple chunks at the “fire line”, wait a few minutes with the lid closed and let the iron grate and egg continue to heat up. With the egg, the fire propagates rather slowly to the unlit lump so for grilling burgers I can achieve a hot and cooler side due to the short cook time. When the dome temp is at about 300 or so, I load the burgers (which by now are at about 45-50F raw) along the front half perimeter and close the air intake to about 1/2 and just the daisy petals at full open. The dome temp will continue to rise while the burgers get a kiss of smoke and heat up. After a few minutes, I flip and rotate the burgers, staying on the cool side. I rotate the burgers because the center of the grill is well lit by now and the hottest section, so trying to even out the heat in the burger. At this point, I’m doing the balance of what the article suggests, transferring the burgers with a flip to the back half perimeter which is about 450F at the grate, about 500F at the dome. When the juices are seeping out a bit, time for a flip and rotate with a finished burger temp around 155-160. I never seem to see much heat rise in burgers after pulling. Stubborn burgers get a flip and an additional half minute at the center of the grill.
    My goal is to create a juicy burger with a nice balance of flavors, as easily as possible. I can get the grill prep and cook accomplished in 60-70 minutes, aside from Egg cool down time. Favorite burger topping is sliced mushrooms and chopped onions sautéed in butter, Worcestershire sauce and Jim Beam. Don’t need ‘nuthin else as these flavors come together nicely. But hey, I love a great, grilled burger – period.

  16. How is it any safer to grind your own burgers when bacteria are still on the outside of beef cuts? Why not still 160° minimum?
    The only way this might make sense is if you cooked the outside of the meat first and then grinded it after.

    1. It has to do with time. the bacteria that get ground into the meat don’t have time to grow and multiply as much when you grind fresh and cook as opposed to when you buy, say, a tube of ground beef form the store.
      Is it 100% safe? No, but it is much, much safer. If you want it even safer, you can briefly poach the meat, as you say, cooking the outside a little bit, before grinding. Of you could give it a spritz with hydrogen peroxide.

  17. Well, no one else mentioned this, so maybe I am just missing something. But I cannot make sense of the two graphs. The way I read it, and contrary to the text, the direct heat method shows a longer, not shorter time duration to go from 153 to 157. At lease that is so for the first two times the meat temp rises to 153 in both methods. But perhaps the meat is not pulled when it first hits 153, as stated, but on the 2nd or 3rd time it rises to that temp. In any case, what is accounting for the sharp rises and falls of the temps shown in both methods? If the probe is in the center, then flipping should not produce much change in temp, especially if flipped every 60-90 seconds . Without identifying the abrupt changes of temps in both graphs, it’s hard (for me, anyway) to figure what is going on.

  18. I read your article plus all comments about two stage grilling. So, I took your challenge by grilling using your two stage. I must say burgers were excellent and much better than the way I have grilled burgers for 55 years. I’m never to old to learn better ways. Recommend to all grillers to try your two stage method. I promise you you will not be disappointed.

  19. What about Sous Vide?

    According to the ATK book on Sous Vide, cooking in the water bath over a long period will kill pathogens. You can even cook pork Medium-Rare.

    The hamburgers will stay at the chosen temperature until they are pulled from the water.

    You can cook them medium rare over a few hours and sear them on the BBQ grill.

  20. I’ll bet the author did his testing over gas. I tried this technique over charcoal on a Weber grill and discovered a problem. First, get the coals going and up to temperature under one side of the grill. Then, put the burgers on the other (cooler) side of the grill and close the lid. Open a couple times to monitor burger temperature and flip them. When they are getting close to the target temperature, remove the lid and move the burgers directly over the coals. Here’s the rub: After ten or so minutes with the lid on, the coals are no longer as hot as they were before, and in fact not hot enough to quickly sear the burgers. I realized this when I pulled them off and we ate them. Alternately, one could pull off the lid and take the burgers off the grill until the coals again become hot – five minutes? – then complete the searing. But they’d get cold inside, no? Or maybe just remove the lid well before the burgers get near the target temperature, allow the coals to reheat, and then move them over the coals for the searing? Or maybe this whole technique just works better with gas? Thoughts?

    1. You are right that we did this on gas, but we have also tried it on charcoal. There is a dance you have to do of getting enough airflow to keep the coals hot, for sure. We also set up our charcoal grill to use Billows, so when we take the lid off the fan starts blowing and lights the coals up fairly quickly. Of course, we WOULD do that!

  21. Great info and it’s scary to think that we have been eating med-rare burgers all these years. I have always assumed meat tartare has the outer layer sliced off with a knife but I’m not sure. Is slicing the outer layer off the meat another way of removing the bacteria from the surface before grinding? Or is the knife pushing the bacteria into the meat? What are the true health risks of not removing the bacteria from the outside of beef?

    1. Yes, slicing can drag bacteria on to the new surface.
      Here’s the thing about food safety: you can make all your food almost 100% safe, but a lot of it won’t taste very good. There is always some inherent risk in things like medium-rare burgers and steak tartare, a risk we all have to decide on for ourselves. Those with weaker immune systems need to take it seriously, those with very robust system. can make that choice of not.

      But there are things you can do to make the meat safer. When we served tartare back when I was a chef we’d dry brine the loin overnight before chopping it up. The sale does a good job of killing surface bacteria. You can also blanch a whole cut very briefly before grinding. But using fresh meat and grinding it yourself will do a pretty good job of mitigating the risks.

  22. If you want a juicy burger, mix in some baking soda before forming the patties. I believe it is 1/4tsp per pound of meat.

  23. When looking for many, I’d suggest a IN BETWEEN step to extend the 1st. Precooking step and the final sear/serve step so that you can better match the burgers to thise waiting to be served…

    Q. Does this multistep method also apply to salmon fillets?

    1. Yes, it also works for salmon, but at lower temperatures. Salmon is done between 125 and 140°F (depending on personal preference), so you’ll need to lower the action temps accordingly.

  24. I gave up the sear long ago and cook everything low and slow in the smokers. You will adjust to not missing the sear over time and it’s much healthier since that wonderful caramelization is unfortunately carcinogenic.

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